Dogtrition: The RAW-Truth to a Healthy Lifestyle.
Table of Contents
- Nature vs. New Age
- Nutrition
- Getting Started
- What To Expect/ Natural Meal Additives
- Recipes
- Videos
Natures Intended Lifestyle/Versus New Age Fallacies :
Have you ever questioned what dogs originally ate and where they came from when they were not our loving and loyal household pets? The untamed and beastly animal wasn't the Pug, Yorkie or German shepherd you are staring at today. In-fact dogs originated from wolves. In particular the Grey Wolf. Grey Wolf's are the closest decedents to domesticated dogs from our past. These dogs did not eat Purina, or kibble but ate Bison and elk. They focused on large prey staying close with their pack as they hunted in a team, making sure to pick off the weakest link. The more socialized they became with Humans the more they scavenged, even to the extent of eating human waste. This was over ten thousand years ago, the earliest kibble on the market is only a couple hundred years old. So to assume that it's natural for a dog to be eating kibble is actually quite the opposite. Their stomachs are use to digesting harsh food, many times stale, rotted, and old. The best thing you can do for your dog is to make the proper choice in feeding RAW.
Now you're probably thinking what about bacteria? Salmonella, trichinosis, the list goes on. Lets break down a few more Fallacies. Does RAW have a better environment to grow bacteria in the stomach then kibble, no. Actually kibble can irritate the stomach lining, and has a slower digestion rate then RAW, leaving many undigested starches and sugars to create a warm and moist environment for bacteria to grow. However in RAW not only does the dogs Saliva contain bacteria fighting enzymes, but the stomach acids and short intestinal tract in dogs can tolerate and even eliminate the environment needed for bacteria to grow. Did you know Salmonella actually lives in dogs intestines? RAW has a higher digestion rate, leaves less time for bacteria to grow, and is easier on the stomach. RAW even provides beneficial nutrients and vitamins for your dog without all those horrible additives. When starting a RAW diet your dog quickly becomes stronger and healthier without any needed visits to the vet. Has your pup ever had a problem with allergies or ear infections? A large cause of vet visits have to deal with our dogs diets. In fact kibble has been proven to have many allergen causing ingredients like grains, potatoes, soy and dietary additives. Whether you are feeding RAW or homemade you have to remember that you are not including these ingredients above but making sure to get all of the nutritional vitamins, fats, and proteins that your dog needs to survive and thrive in this world. If you have to feed kibble, please make sure to get a Higher grade kibble that doesn't have any of the additives or allergens I mentioned above so your dog does not suffer.
Now you're probably thinking what about bacteria? Salmonella, trichinosis, the list goes on. Lets break down a few more Fallacies. Does RAW have a better environment to grow bacteria in the stomach then kibble, no. Actually kibble can irritate the stomach lining, and has a slower digestion rate then RAW, leaving many undigested starches and sugars to create a warm and moist environment for bacteria to grow. However in RAW not only does the dogs Saliva contain bacteria fighting enzymes, but the stomach acids and short intestinal tract in dogs can tolerate and even eliminate the environment needed for bacteria to grow. Did you know Salmonella actually lives in dogs intestines? RAW has a higher digestion rate, leaves less time for bacteria to grow, and is easier on the stomach. RAW even provides beneficial nutrients and vitamins for your dog without all those horrible additives. When starting a RAW diet your dog quickly becomes stronger and healthier without any needed visits to the vet. Has your pup ever had a problem with allergies or ear infections? A large cause of vet visits have to deal with our dogs diets. In fact kibble has been proven to have many allergen causing ingredients like grains, potatoes, soy and dietary additives. Whether you are feeding RAW or homemade you have to remember that you are not including these ingredients above but making sure to get all of the nutritional vitamins, fats, and proteins that your dog needs to survive and thrive in this world. If you have to feed kibble, please make sure to get a Higher grade kibble that doesn't have any of the additives or allergens I mentioned above so your dog does not suffer.
RAW Food Variations and Individual Benefits:
Chicken
Vitamins:
Niacin - 12.71 mg Pantothenic Acid - 0.936 mg Vitamin B6 - 0.56 mg Folate - 4 mcg Vitamin A - 93 IU Vitamin D - 5 IU Minerals: Potassium - 245 mg Phosphorus - 214 mg Calcium - 14 mg Magnesium- 27 mg Iron - 1.07 mg Sodium - 71 mg Zinc - 1.02 mg Selenium - 24.7 mcg Turkey
Vitamins:
Niacin - 6.365 mg Pantothenic Acid - 0.634 mg Vitamin B6 - 0.48 mg Folate - 6 mcg Vitamin B12 - 0.36 mcg Minerals: Potassium - 288 mg Phosphorus - 210 mg Calcium - 21 mg Magnesium - 27 mg Iron - 1.4 mg Sodium - 63 mg Pig/Pork
Vitamins:
Vitamin C - 1 mg Niacin - 5.454 mg Pantothenic Acid - 0.694 mg Folate - 4 mcg Vitamin B12 - 0.58 mcg Vitamin A - 7 IU Minerals: Potassium - 362 mg Phosphorus - 219 mg Calcium - 25 mg Magnesium - 22 mg Iron - 1.04 mg Sodium - 66 mg Zinc - 2.09 mg Selenium - 43.2 mcg |
Deer /Venison
Vitamins:
Niacin - 9.0 mg Vitamin B6 - 0.6 mg Vitamin B12- 1.6 mcg Vitamin K - 1.2 mcg Minerals: Magnesium - 26 mg Potassium - 338 mg Zinc - 3 mg Selenium - 11 mcg Lamb/Mutton
Vitamins:
Niacin - 6.15 mg Pantothenic Acid - 0.7 mg Vitamin B6 - 0.13 mg Folate - 21 mcg Vitamin B12 - 2.64 mcg Vitamin E - 0.14 mg Vitamin K - 4.6 mcg Vitamin D - 2 IU Minerals: Potassium - 251 mg Phosphorus - 184 mg Calcium - 20 mg Magnesium - 23 mg Iron - 1.97 mg Sodium - 66 mg Zinc - 5.23 mg Selenium - 26.2 mcg Cow/Beef
Vitamins:
Niacin- 6.979 mg Folate - 15 mcg Vitamin B12 - 3.62 mcg Vitamin E - 0.87 mg Vitamin K - 3.1 mcg Vitamin D - 14 IU Minerals: Potassium- 393 mg Phosphorus - 296 mg Calcium - 27 mg Magnesium - 32 mg Iron - 4.11 mg Sodium - 80 mg Zinc- 11.32 mg |
Nutritional Information provided by: Click here ( Calories, Proteins & Fat) , Click Here (Vitamins & Minerals) & Click Here ( Venison Facts)
PLEASE READ: Why aren't Game Meats listed? At the moment i'm just focusing on RAW foods that are easily accessible to all of us. Game meat however can be a much cheaper alternative to the meats listed above, especially when you are catching it yourself. I will try to provide more information on Game meats but at the moment I will not go into much detail about their nutritional values seeing as there is already a large array of animals to cover. However I will list some recipes for game that is easily accessible such as fish and venison which should be below on the "recipes" section ASAP. Thank you.
Getting Started on Raw: Ready, Set, GO!
First lets make a list of the supplies you will need to get started on your RAW journey. Things marked with this (*) asterisk are not needed but are very useful in your day to day life feeding your pet RAW. However I will say now that feeding RAW does take a bit more effort then just pouring a cupful of kibble or so a day. So if you aren't prepared to really give it your all, please do not continue any further.
- Scale- You will need to make sure you dog is getting the proper amount of food for his or her weight class. Also remember this ratio: An Adult Dog should be getting 2-4% of its body weight. When dealing with a pup older than 8 weeks of age, it will need about 4-6% of its body weight depending on how active it is. The meals should compose of 80% muscle/meat (Including the heart), 10% organ ( 5% of the organ being liver) and 10% bone.
- Freezer chest/ Storage for Meat- Typically the way RAW can be cheaper then kibble is when buying in bulk, catching it yourself whether fishing, gaming, or buying from wholesalers such as farmers. Don't forget online! Craigslist and other websites offer good deals on older meat that is going to expire soon or is frostbitten. A lot of meat can be preserved in the freezer for up to 6 months or more! While at the supermarkets grab your meats as they are about to expire or are at a marked down price, you can even ask them to call in a special order for organs if your store doesn't carry any. Most stores will happily oblige. Seperate them into proper storage containers or bags (mark the date sold) and Freeze RAW food for a least a week to 30 days to get rid of any potential parasites. Always handle carefully, cleanliness is very vital in making sure your dog doesn't contract anything while on RAW.
- *Eating Mat- Another way to help stop the spread of bacteria is to make sure your dog finishes his/her meal on the spot DO NOT let them hide it or bury for later use. This can allow bacteria to grow. If the dog can not finish his/her meal then put it away in the fridge and give the rest later that day. Invest in a mat or table cloth even a towel to let your pup eat on. Eating on a surface that can be easily cleaned will be able to prevent them spreading or dragging the raw food inside. You can also feed outside on the grass if you are worried about a mess. Using the same mat will not only allow for easy cleanup but will also train your dog where dinner time is to be expected.
- **Supplements- If you are not able to feed organs, it is still NECESSARY to include at least liver in their diets while on RAW, but you will need to also look into supplements. Supplements can be costly, but are needed if you can't get your hands on the needed organs to supply vitamins and minerals needed for a dogs diet. DO NOT START RAW IF YOU DON'T INTEND ON FEEDING ORGANS OR FINDING OTHER SOURCES OF ENZYMES, VITAMINS, MINERALS, PRE & PRO BIOTICS TO REPLACE THEM.
- RAW Treats- Consider getting raw meat, preferably ground beef or turkey when training or giving your dog treats. Again, as said above manufactured food/kibble digests at a different rate then RAW so it is not preferred to mix the two even when its in small amounts. Problems associated when mixing the two can cause constipation, diarrhea, upset stomach and lastly bacterial infections.
What To Expect On RAW:
- Smaller, less frequent stools; Waste doesn't carry as harsh of an odor.
- Silky coat, healthy teeth (no stinky breath).
- Require less water, urine is of a lower concentration making unsightly grass stains a thing of the past.
- Easy tool to manage weight. You'll be able to know exactly what your dog is eating, and what allergens to stay away from.
- Your dog will be adjusting to a diffrent diet, give him/her ample time for his/her body to correctly adjust to eating RAW. You may notice loose stools, or constipation in the first couple of weeks. Do not be alarmed this is normal and will fade with time.
- For loose stools add more bone, if your dog is constipated you can give him/her an increased amount of fat in their diet to ease the digestion process.
Natural Supplementing:
- Cottage cheese/Yogurt- Calcium, Vitamin C. ( Min. 4 Tbsp/week)
- Eggs- Amino acids, High Protein, and great for the Eyes. Mixed with a meal can aid in digestion.(Min. 3 eggs/week)
- Coconut oil- Antibacterial, Helps Bone & Dental health, great source of Healthy Saturated Fat as well as aids in digestion. (Mix a small amount into each meal to ease digestion)
- Vitamin supplementation- Vitamin E & Fish Oil.
Information provided by click here (What To Expect On Raw) click here & click here (Natural Supplementing)
RAW Recipes:
These are just fun recipes to spice up your dogs meals or treats. As long as you are providing all the nutrition he/or she needs these recipes are not needed.
Treats:
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Meals:
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RAW Recipe Videos:
These will coincide with the Raw Recipes above. Not all recipes will have videos.
Author : Alyssa Aguirre
Questions, Comments? Email at:
phobe001@gmail.com
Questions, Comments? Email at:
phobe001@gmail.com
Dispelling the Raw Myth
One thing that truly irks me is the fear mongering campaign waged by those so against a raw natural diet. Whether stated by an “uneducated” vet, an owner, or members of the kibble industry, those opposed to a raw natural diet will spout out ill informed diatribes full of smoke-and-mirror falsehoods regarding raw. Often a bit of reading will see past the smoke screen and lead folks to a educated choice when it comes to feeding and caring for their fur kids. I hope that this series of ‘raw myth’ posts will help guide people in knowing that there are other choices to feeding your dog or cat beside that of rendered waste product.
In this first installment, I’ll explore “Is the Dog a Carnivore”?
This is a truly important question in how we choose to best feed our dogs the best and most appropriate diet possible. Understanding what a dog’s digestive tract is designed to ingest will help us understand what should be placed into it. It’s like a car, without understanding how the engine works how do you know whether it needs diesel or gasoline to power it? Our dog’s nutritional care requires the same understanding in order to allow for peak performance and optimal nutritional intake.
Dogs are certainly adaptable and could be considered a ‘non-obligated’ omnivore, simply meaning that the animal ‘can’ survive by eating a variety consumables, but that does not mean that simply ‘surviving’ is the best means to achieve it’s nutritional requirements. I could live off of Cheeseburgers and Fries for my entire life, but does it mean it’s HOW my diet should be maintained for optimum health?
To understand the question of ‘carnivore’ or ‘omnivore’ (hopefully no one in their right mind would consider the dog a herbivore - so I won’t spend time discussing a herbivore’s digestive system in detail) one must first understand the principle differences between the two. An ‘omnivore’ ~ from the latin words ‘omni’ meaning ‘all’, and ‘vorare’ meaning ‘devour’ and as implied can eat all - plants or meats. Whereas ‘carnivore’ has the origin of ‘carne’ latin for ‘flesh’ - implying a meat diet. Examples of omnivores are humans and pigs. And carnivores would be wolves, cats, carrion birds, and of course dogs.
We could spend time discussing the entire anatomy and structure of a dog and how it is designed to hunt and kill prey, but for sake of time we’ll stick with just the digestive tract for this post.
The mouth of a dog is one of the a very indicative example of how a dog is classified as a carnivore and has all the tell tale signs of an animal designed to ingest prey. A dog’s mouth is almost identical to that of it’s wolf ancestor - incisors and canine teeth designed to latch onto prey and to tear flesh. The carnassial teeth (first molar on lower, and last premolar on upper on each side) create a scissor effect to cut meat and tendons. The molars are then used to crush bone. What they lack is flattened molars used to grind vegetation as found in omni and herbivores. Look into your dog’s mouth - you won’t find a flatted molar suffice like we have to grind food (we’ll get to that reason shortly).
In addition to the jagged teeth designed for quick ingestion without chewing and pre-digestion in the mouth (such as in omni and herbivores) the dog lacks the ability to laterally move it’s jaw (if you’ve never looked go check out your dog - the jaw will only move up and down). Picture a cow chewing it’s grass - the jaw moves in a lateral motion grinding the vegetation to begin the digestion process. Same with humans, when we eat there is and up down and sideways movement to break down consumables prior to the next stage of digestion. This lateral jaw movement and grinding is essential for the digestion of vegetation due to thick cellular walls.
Dogs are designed to “bolt” down their foods. 42 teeth and 2000 tastebuds, compared with our 32 and 9000 tastebuds, dogs are not built to chew and savour their foods. They ‘wolf’ it down and the mouth is merely an entry portal. Their system is efficient and meant to ‘grab and dash’ or ‘load and go!’.
A dogs mouth also produces lysozyme, an agent which helps kill and pathogens ingested (stomach acids will help destroy others).
Prior to exploring further down the digestive tract, it also needs to be added that dogs do not produce salivary amylase, a digestive enzyme produced in the mouth to be mixed with ground food during the mastication process and assists with the digestion of carbohydrates. This does not mean that dogs cannot digest carbohydrates as amylase is produced in the pancreas, but is another sign that they are not predisposed to be eating a carb laden diet. Most all omnivores and herbivores produce salivary amylase for the work of carb digestion to begin immediately, while all carnivores lack the presence of the secretion. Some folks who like to claim “well cows don’t have salivary amylase” are not comparing apples to apples - ruminant animals such as cows and sheep operate on an entirely different system not acid based but fermentation based. When faced with this point, one ‘dog is an onmivore’ supporter stated ‘well, salivary amylase isn’t that important anyhow’ - funny, one would think if the secretion was so unimportant that nature would have sought efficiency and evolved beyond it in other animals.
Down to the stomach where we find more examples of how the canine system is designed for that of meat above all else. The dog has an extremely acidic stomach with pH levels as low as 1 (7 is neutral). These strong acid levels allow for the breakdown of animal proteins to all for further digestion by enzymes.
Moving onwards. The dog has an intestinal/body length ratio of 6:1 - extremely short when compared with 12:1 in humans and pigs, and 20:1 in ruminants such as cows. The reason is simple - vegetation requires long digestion times to break down the mater. Dogs do not require long intestinal tracts and animal proteins are broken down quickly in the stomach and can be moved rapidly thru the intestines.
Raw dog food can move thru the entire digestive process, from entry to exit in approximately 4-6 hours. Dry kibble foods can take 10-12 hours to run the course due to the nature of it’s composition - the dogs system needs to work longer and harder to try and extract the needed nutrients - which it still fails to fully achieve when one compares excrement (crude I know, but a great indicator of how they system is functioning).
Notice how when your dog eats a piece of grass, how it’ll often arrive at the other side as green as it was when eaten? Or feed your dog a carrot and guess what comes out later - a carrot. As illustrated above, their systems from their teeth onwards are not designed to chew, ingest, or digest vegetation. It’s important to understand this when considering the best possible diet for our dogs. And hence the importance to seriously consider the correct classification as carnivore. And by using that as a starting point we can further examine why a raw natural diet is the most superior form of caring for our dogs nutritional needs.
To suggest a dog is otherwise is no different than stating ‘there are vegan humans, therefore the human is a herbivore’. Incorrect obviously. So holds true with our canine friends, simply because they can survive on a certain diet does not mean it is the diet BEST suited for them.
Part II of the raw myths dispelled series will look at the negative campaigning against raw with concerns of salmonella or e-coli.
One thing that truly irks me is the fear mongering campaign waged by those so against a raw natural diet. Whether stated by an “uneducated” vet, an owner, or members of the kibble industry, those opposed to a raw natural diet will spout out ill informed diatribes full of smoke-and-mirror falsehoods regarding raw. Often a bit of reading will see past the smoke screen and lead folks to a educated choice when it comes to feeding and caring for their fur kids. I hope that this series of ‘raw myth’ posts will help guide people in knowing that there are other choices to feeding your dog or cat beside that of rendered waste product.
In this first installment, I’ll explore “Is the Dog a Carnivore”?
This is a truly important question in how we choose to best feed our dogs the best and most appropriate diet possible. Understanding what a dog’s digestive tract is designed to ingest will help us understand what should be placed into it. It’s like a car, without understanding how the engine works how do you know whether it needs diesel or gasoline to power it? Our dog’s nutritional care requires the same understanding in order to allow for peak performance and optimal nutritional intake.
Dogs are certainly adaptable and could be considered a ‘non-obligated’ omnivore, simply meaning that the animal ‘can’ survive by eating a variety consumables, but that does not mean that simply ‘surviving’ is the best means to achieve it’s nutritional requirements. I could live off of Cheeseburgers and Fries for my entire life, but does it mean it’s HOW my diet should be maintained for optimum health?
To understand the question of ‘carnivore’ or ‘omnivore’ (hopefully no one in their right mind would consider the dog a herbivore - so I won’t spend time discussing a herbivore’s digestive system in detail) one must first understand the principle differences between the two. An ‘omnivore’ ~ from the latin words ‘omni’ meaning ‘all’, and ‘vorare’ meaning ‘devour’ and as implied can eat all - plants or meats. Whereas ‘carnivore’ has the origin of ‘carne’ latin for ‘flesh’ - implying a meat diet. Examples of omnivores are humans and pigs. And carnivores would be wolves, cats, carrion birds, and of course dogs.
We could spend time discussing the entire anatomy and structure of a dog and how it is designed to hunt and kill prey, but for sake of time we’ll stick with just the digestive tract for this post.
The mouth of a dog is one of the a very indicative example of how a dog is classified as a carnivore and has all the tell tale signs of an animal designed to ingest prey. A dog’s mouth is almost identical to that of it’s wolf ancestor - incisors and canine teeth designed to latch onto prey and to tear flesh. The carnassial teeth (first molar on lower, and last premolar on upper on each side) create a scissor effect to cut meat and tendons. The molars are then used to crush bone. What they lack is flattened molars used to grind vegetation as found in omni and herbivores. Look into your dog’s mouth - you won’t find a flatted molar suffice like we have to grind food (we’ll get to that reason shortly).
In addition to the jagged teeth designed for quick ingestion without chewing and pre-digestion in the mouth (such as in omni and herbivores) the dog lacks the ability to laterally move it’s jaw (if you’ve never looked go check out your dog - the jaw will only move up and down). Picture a cow chewing it’s grass - the jaw moves in a lateral motion grinding the vegetation to begin the digestion process. Same with humans, when we eat there is and up down and sideways movement to break down consumables prior to the next stage of digestion. This lateral jaw movement and grinding is essential for the digestion of vegetation due to thick cellular walls.
Dogs are designed to “bolt” down their foods. 42 teeth and 2000 tastebuds, compared with our 32 and 9000 tastebuds, dogs are not built to chew and savour their foods. They ‘wolf’ it down and the mouth is merely an entry portal. Their system is efficient and meant to ‘grab and dash’ or ‘load and go!’.
A dogs mouth also produces lysozyme, an agent which helps kill and pathogens ingested (stomach acids will help destroy others).
Prior to exploring further down the digestive tract, it also needs to be added that dogs do not produce salivary amylase, a digestive enzyme produced in the mouth to be mixed with ground food during the mastication process and assists with the digestion of carbohydrates. This does not mean that dogs cannot digest carbohydrates as amylase is produced in the pancreas, but is another sign that they are not predisposed to be eating a carb laden diet. Most all omnivores and herbivores produce salivary amylase for the work of carb digestion to begin immediately, while all carnivores lack the presence of the secretion. Some folks who like to claim “well cows don’t have salivary amylase” are not comparing apples to apples - ruminant animals such as cows and sheep operate on an entirely different system not acid based but fermentation based. When faced with this point, one ‘dog is an onmivore’ supporter stated ‘well, salivary amylase isn’t that important anyhow’ - funny, one would think if the secretion was so unimportant that nature would have sought efficiency and evolved beyond it in other animals.
Down to the stomach where we find more examples of how the canine system is designed for that of meat above all else. The dog has an extremely acidic stomach with pH levels as low as 1 (7 is neutral). These strong acid levels allow for the breakdown of animal proteins to all for further digestion by enzymes.
Moving onwards. The dog has an intestinal/body length ratio of 6:1 - extremely short when compared with 12:1 in humans and pigs, and 20:1 in ruminants such as cows. The reason is simple - vegetation requires long digestion times to break down the mater. Dogs do not require long intestinal tracts and animal proteins are broken down quickly in the stomach and can be moved rapidly thru the intestines.
Raw dog food can move thru the entire digestive process, from entry to exit in approximately 4-6 hours. Dry kibble foods can take 10-12 hours to run the course due to the nature of it’s composition - the dogs system needs to work longer and harder to try and extract the needed nutrients - which it still fails to fully achieve when one compares excrement (crude I know, but a great indicator of how they system is functioning).
Notice how when your dog eats a piece of grass, how it’ll often arrive at the other side as green as it was when eaten? Or feed your dog a carrot and guess what comes out later - a carrot. As illustrated above, their systems from their teeth onwards are not designed to chew, ingest, or digest vegetation. It’s important to understand this when considering the best possible diet for our dogs. And hence the importance to seriously consider the correct classification as carnivore. And by using that as a starting point we can further examine why a raw natural diet is the most superior form of caring for our dogs nutritional needs.
To suggest a dog is otherwise is no different than stating ‘there are vegan humans, therefore the human is a herbivore’. Incorrect obviously. So holds true with our canine friends, simply because they can survive on a certain diet does not mean it is the diet BEST suited for them.
Part II of the raw myths dispelled series will look at the negative campaigning against raw with concerns of salmonella or e-coli.